The tussle over the GI tag for ‘Tangail Sarees of Bengal’ emerges out of the cross-border clash of cultural recognition and legal rights.
In the first place let us understand why the ‘GI’ tag is of importance to any nation or region and what legal implications it has. Geographical Indication not only ensures protection to the product, but also ensures recognition to the place it belongs and the community that owns it. GI tag gives the product its recognition and ensures authenticity. Getting a GI tag also helps to prevent any unauthorised use, enhances the quality of the product, and promotes economic development and growth. Likewise, in the instant case, the Tangail Sarees has been an essential part of the Tangail community and their cultural heritage. The weaving of the Tangail Saree reveals artistry, skills, and techniques which are part of ancestral wisdom of the weavers which is passed down through generations. The sarees demonstrate intricate weaving techniques and distinctive design aesthetics which have been practised and used by the weavers over the years.
The Tangail Saree weavers hailed from a weaving community called ‘Basak’ in East Bengal, whose expertise lay in yarns and dyes. The Tangail Saree gained recognition and became associated with that area of East Bengal because of the geographical factors of water, soil, and humidity as well as the diverse weaving techniques of the Basak community weavers. After the 1947 Partition, the Basak’s from East Bengal (now Bangladesh) migrated to West Bengal to establish their trade in areas such as Nadia and Bardhhaman. Later, in 1980’s the Tangal Saree Kutir was set up and the Tangail Sarees became extensively woven in the West Bengal. Additionally West Bengal is a part of India and both nations have shared a common culture. Hence, the West Bengal State Handloom Weavers Co-Operative Society who represented the weavers of Tangail Sarees, in their full capacity to enjoy their rights over the product and their cultural association with the product, had applied for the GI and are successfully awarded.
Let us now get a little deeper into the timeline of the GI process and registration. The West Bengal State Handloom Weavers Co-Operative Society had applied for the GI in 2020, and the formality check report was issued to this application stating various discrepancies in the name, proof of origin, description, production process and a few more. Later the Society responded to the FCR in 2021, which revealed that ‘Tangail’ was located in Bangladesh and that was the place of origin of the product. In the due course of action, a consultative group was constituted to discuss on this matter. In 2022 the group suggested to rename the GI and as a response to this, in 2023 the name was changed to “Tangail Saree of Bengal”. After this the application was published and since there was no opposition filed against it, and it proceeded for registration and the GI tag was awarded to the West Bengal State Handloom Weavers Co-Operative Society in 2024.
Later, on 1st February 2024, the Ministry of Culture made an announcement in their Facebook handle alerting Bangladesh about the GI tag being awarded to an Indian Society. This sparked legal debates and discussions. However, the Facebook Post was later removed. The central argument revolves around the fact that ‘Tangail’ a district in Bangladesh is the place of origin of the product, and how then can West Bengal be awarded the GI, when there is no place named ‘Tangail’ in the Indian state, to which place of origin can be attributed to? The understanding is that the GI tag is not solely tied to name of the region or its origin, and in this case, it is connected more to the skill of the weavers and their community who have carried the knowledge, aesthetics and cultural heritage over several generations. The weavers themselves are settled in West Bengal, and hence whether there exists a specific locality named ‘Tangail’ in India shall not be the critical point of consideration.
Considering the shared culture and heritage between both nations, India and Bangladesh should collaborate to jointly protect and safeguard the cultural heritage and reputation of the Tangail sarees. While we have the cultural perception on one hand and the legality of the GI title awarded to one nation on the other hand, both nations must handle the matter with utmost dignity and harmoniously resolve the issue, if not the very purpose of giving a product a ‘Geographical Indication’ tag would be diluted.
By Prakalya. M
